Immerse Yourself in Three Decades of Raf Simons’ Fashion Mastery
Raf Simons, the visionary Belgian designer, recently made headlines by announcing the closure of his eponymous label on November 21 just over a month after presenting his Spring/Summer 2023 Collection, Raf Simons announced that he will be shuttering his eponymous clothing brand. Closing a remarkable 27-year journey to a close. His departure marks the conclusion of an extraordinary chapter in the annals of fashion and youth culture, leaving an indelible mark that continues to resonate today. Simons’s influence on menswear transcends trends; he is a pioneer who seamlessly merged fashion and music, creating a distinctive aesthetic that resonated across diverse audiences.
In reflecting on his pivotal turn towards fashion, Raf Simons often points to a specific moment during Paris Fashion Week – Spring/Summer 1990. It was during this time that he discovered the transformative potential of a runway, realizing how it could evolve into a fully immersive environment. While still engaged in his studies as an industrial designer, Simons interned for Antwerp fashion designer Walter van Beirendonck.
At that juncture, Simons approached fashion primarily as a consumer, expressing admiration for designers like Helmut Lang. However, he had not yet committed to transitioning from a consumer to a producer. During his internship at van Beirendonck’s studio, Simons worked on various aspects, including showroom displays and invitations, such as the creation of “Walter Worldwide News: Fashion is Dead!” for the Spring/Summer 1990 season.
Simons’s trajectory took a definitive turn when he attended a Jean Paul Gaultier show with van Beirendonck. While the spectacle itself, a fusion of nunnery and cycling gear in a nightclub-like setting, was impressive, it was when Simons witnessed Martin Margiela’s show that a profound impact occurred. Staged out of a tent on a dusty playing field in a Parisian suburb, the show featured neighborhood kids participating. Simons was deeply moved, confessing, “I cried. I was so ashamed, ‘F***ing hell, why am I crying at a fashion show?’ I knew they were glamorous events from TV, but when I saw Martin’s show, I was nailed to the ground. It was so socially aware, psychological, and surreal. At that show I said, ‘That’s what I am going to do.’ But I didn’t tell anybody else. I didn’t tell my friends, Walter, my parents, nobody.” This penchant for secrecy and a reclusive determination would characterize the inaugural decade of the Raf Simons brand.
In the early stages of his career, Simons appeared to embrace an air of secrecy, with some members of the fashion press perceiving him as enigmatic. Writers like Amy Spindler and Suzy Menkes reviewed Simons’ presentations as early as 1997, but Cathy Horyn, a New York Times reporter since 1999, did not meet Simons until 2004. Horyn admitted feeling intimidated by Simons’ shows, expressing uncertainty about his personality. It wasn’t until Simons’ “History of the World” collection for Spring/Summer 2005 that Horyn provided substantial coverage. The collection, featuring nylon raincoats, silky sports shirts, and leather pants in aerospace colors styled with a hip-hop influence, left a lasting impression on Horyn. In her own words, it was a “total conversion experience,” and she acknowledged Simons as someone attempting to make a meaningful impact in the world of fashion. Horyn pondered why, out of a generation of visionaries, only a few possessed Simons’ capacity to engage with the future in a genuinely convincing manner.
In 1995, Simons embarked on a journey that would disrupt the established norms of luxury fashion and youth culture. His early collections were a revolutionary blend of the raw energy of youth and the pristine world of high fashion. From adorning fine merino wool sweaters with post-punk badges to transforming perfecto jackets into avant-garde coats, Simons ushered in an era where luxury fashion was no longer confined to the traditional elite but embraced by the young and rebellious.
A watershed moment occurred in 1999 when Simons redefined the menswear silhouette. At a time when loose garments dominated the scene, he introduced a slim and elongated look, challenging conventions and influencing designers like Hedi Slimane, who later popularized it at Dior Homme. This innovative approach marked a pivotal shift in men’s fashion, solidifying Simons’s status as a trailblazer.
Simons’s ability to draw inspiration from subcultures, music, and the angst of youth created a devoted fanbase and inspired a new generation of designers, including Jun Takahashi and Takahiro Miyashita. The early 2000s witnessed Simons and like-minded creatives dominating independent fashion press, embodying the avant-garde and anti-establishment spirit of the era.
However, as Simons assumed high-profile roles at Jil Sander, Dior, and Calvin Klein, some of his original fans quietly moved on, and his eponymous brand faced challenges in regaining its former esteem. Despite occasional flashes of brilliance, Simons’s impact extended beyond the realm of fashion. He pioneered the concept of clothing as collectible objects, with his designs becoming highly sought after on the resale market. A new generation, introduced to his early work through influential figures like A$AP Rocky and Kanye West, fueled a resurgence in demand.
The recent announcement of the closure of Raf Simons’s label elicited surprise and reflection within the fashion community. Simons, now co-creative director at Prada, continues to exert influence, but the end of his brand signifies the conclusion of an era. His brand represented more than just fashion firsts; it embodied a challenge to societal norms, a complex expression of masculinity, and a championing of the dispossessed. Simons’s designs, precise yet chilly, have left an enduring legacy, influencing entire generations of designers.
To delve more deeply into the early days of the designer is to unravel a narrative of creativity that transcends mere trendsetting. Simons’s journey was marked by a relentless pursuit of pushing boundaries. In those early years, he not only challenged the fashion status quo but also reshaped the dialogue between fashion and youth culture. The fusion of post-punk aesthetics with luxury materials and the transformation of iconic pieces like perfecto jackets into high-fashion statements were revolutionary.
From Late 90’s and Early 2000’s Raf Collections
Simons’s influence on the menswear silhouette in 1999 wasn’t just a style choice; it was a statement challenging the prevailing norms of the time. His impact on designers like Hedi Slimane, who further popularized the slim and elongated look, showcases the enduring influence of Simons’s innovative vision.
The early 2000s, a period when Simons and his contemporaries ruled independent fashion press, was an era of avant-garde creativity. Simons’s ability to seamlessly weave subcultural influences, music, and the raw emotions of youth into his designs set a benchmark for those who followed. The resonance of that period can still be felt today, as fashion continues to draw inspiration from Simons’s bold and unapologetic approach.
As Simons took on leadership roles at major fashion houses, his brand faced both challenges and triumphs. The struggle to regain former esteem notwithstanding, Simons’s impact on fashion extended beyond the tangible garments. His designs became coveted collectibles, signaling a shift in how clothing was perceived. This shift towards appreciating clothing as more than just garments mirrors the transformative power of Simons’s influence.
The closure of Raf Simons’s label isn’t a conclusion but a transition. His role as co-creative director at Prada ensures that his influence endures, but the end of his eponymous brand invites reflection on the broader impact of his work. Beyond being a trailblazer in fashion, Simons championed a new narrative for masculinity, challenging preconceived notions and championing the marginalized.
Maybe he could have appointed a Kiko Kostandinov or a Samuel Ross to take over the brand. But it’s more Simons–more punk, more decisive, more capricious, more artistic– to simply say goodbye rather than attempt to Frankenstein a young new designer into the role. Once again, he’s leading us to think about how we might look at things another way; what’s the value of a super personal brand if the person who poured their heart into it isn’t there to do it anymore?
In the annals of fashion history, Raf Simons stands not just as a designer but as a cultural icon who reshaped the language of style. His legacy is not confined to the pages of fashion magazines; it lives on in the way designers approach their craft today. The distinct blend of avant-garde and wearable modernism that Simons brought to the forefront has left an indelible mark, forever altering the trajectory of men’s fashion and setting a standard for creative expression that continues to resonate and inspire.
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