Drawing inspiration from the sculptural work of Agostino Bonalumi, Kiko Kostadinov explored construction, proportion, and form for Spring 2027.
Kiko Kostadinov continued his ongoing investigation into the possibilities of garment construction for Spring 2027, presenting a collection defined by precision, experimentation, and an uncompromising approach to form. The designer once again demonstrated why he remains one of the most distinctive voices working in contemporary menswear today.
This season, Kostadinov looked to the work of Italian artist Agostino Bonalumi, whose practice explored volume and structure beneath the surface of the canvas. That influence translated into garments shaped from within, where internal construction techniques became the primary source of visual interest.
Surface embellishment was intentionally restrained. Prints were absent, visible hardware was largely concealed, and external detailing was kept to a minimum. Instead, the collection directed attention toward silhouette, proportion, and the relationship between garment and body. Throughout the show, clothing was defined by subtle shifts in volume, unexpected folds, and carefully engineered lines.
Throughout the collection, familiar garments were transformed through unconventional cutting techniques and complex pattern making. Shirting, tunics, and jersey pieces were reconstructed through asymmetrical panels, layered elements, and innovative fastening systems that challenged traditional ideas of dress while remaining highly wearable.
Trousers emerged as another focal point. Distinctive hems, sculptural panels, and asymmetric closures altered conventional proportions while introducing movement and fluidity into the silhouettes. Recurring geometric forms also appeared across outerwear, tailoring, accessories, and footwear, creating a cohesive visual language throughout the collection.
A restrained palette reinforced the collection’s architectural quality, allowing construction and silhouette to remain the primary focus. Muted industrial tones and institutional greens further emphasized the collection’s sense of precision and control.
Collaborations remained an important component of Kostadinov’s wider design ecosystem. New eyewear developed with Oakley and the continuation of the designer’s partnership with Crocs expanded the collection’s vocabulary while reinforcing his longstanding interest in functional and unconventional design solutions.
Collections such as this demonstrate Kostadinov’s continued commitment to building an entirely distinct design language. In doing so, he remains one of the few designers actively expanding the possibilities of contemporary menswear.
