Set against the backdrop of extreme Paris heat, Rick Owens examined the relationship between the body, clothing, and resilience.
Rick Owens returned to the Palais de Tokyo with a collection that examined the body, performance, and adaptation in an increasingly unpredictable world. Presented against the backdrop of soaring fountains and extreme Paris heat, the show once again demonstrated Owens’s ability to translate contemporary realities into a singular fashion language.
Staged on a suspended runway extending across the Palais de Tokyo pool, the dramatic setting amplified the collection’s exploration of protection, transformation, and resilience. As temperatures across Europe reached record levels, Owens responded with a collection that considered both the physical and emotional experiences of navigating an uncertain environment.
Sculptural forms introduced some of the collection’s most striking silhouettes. Constructed through complex techniques involving foam and latex, these dramatic pieces altered the body’s natural shape, creating garments that appeared simultaneously protective and experimental. Throughout the collection, Owens continued to challenge conventional ideas surrounding proportion, structure, and the relationship between clothing and the wearer.
Performance wear also occupied an important role. The collection marked Owens’s first collaboration with Adidas since 2017, introducing a new series of footwear and technically driven garments developed alongside the sportswear giant. Advanced fabrication techniques, innovative footwear designs, and climate responsive outerwear expanded Owens’s universe while remaining consistent with his broader design philosophy.
The collection frequently blurred distinctions between athletic dressing, protective clothing, and fetish influenced design. Streamlined tracksuits evolved into leather interpretations, while sheer fabrics, latex treatments, and body conscious silhouettes emphasized the physicality of the garments. Throughout the collection, Owens continued to explore the intimate relationship between clothing and the body.
Tailoring offered another perspective on Owens’s evolving menswear language. Strong shoulders, exaggerated proportions, and removable leather details introduced moments of authority, while inflated outerwear and distorted forms challenged traditional notions of menswear. The collection continuously shifted between refinement and exaggeration, creating silhouettes that pushed familiar garments into unexpected territory.
Collaborations with specialist artisans further elevated the collection. Handcrafted latex garments and technically ambitious constructions reinforced Owens’s longstanding commitment to experimentation, craftsmanship, and innovation.
More than three decades into his career, Owens continues to operate entirely on his own terms. While trends and industry cycles come and go, his work remains rooted in a distinct worldview that merges fashion, performance, art, and personal philosophy. This collection served as another reminder that few designers working today possess the same ability to challenge, provoke, and expand the possibilities of contemporary menswear.
